Massaman curry with beef fingers, buttered new potatoes, a tamarind emulsion and peanut crumb

There’s a big grin on my face because I got my mitts on some beef fingers—you know, that meat hiding between the individual ribs. It’s something to die for. Twas an impromptu purchase and I didn’t know what I wanted to do with them. Then it came to me—Massaman.

It’s been a long while since I’ve eaten a Massaman curry. Nevertheless it remains quite possibly my favourite curry—rich and nutty and just spicier than mild. It has to be beef though. Now, beef fingers perhaps aren’t the norm but, hey, what’s not to like? Featherblade and shin work well too.

I got it in my head to use whole, small potatoes and serve them alongside rather than folded into the curry. Basically because I’m a pretentious git. Chucking diced spuds into the sauce would be de rigueur, but I was going for the look of a British meat and potato dish. Of course the Mrs immediately said she wanted the potatoes actually in the curry. Whatever. There’s room to refine the presentation of this dish. Maybe pommes noisettes next time? I think I’ll give beef or veal cheeks a whirl too.

Ultimately success comes down to the paste. And the big question is: pound with a pestle or blend with a machine?

Traditionally a pestle and mortar would be used with ingredients incorporated one at a time, from the most hard and dry to the most soft and wet, and being reduced to a pulp before the next is added. In this way, aroma is released gradually allowing the balance of the paste to be perceived and adjusted as it is made. Obviously this takes time, it can get messy, and it requires elbow grease and a bit of puff. Why bother? Well, the argument goes, “a hand-made paste has superior texture and intensity of flavour, which becomes apparent when the paste is fried”.

I do believe this and I like to respect authenticity—but I’m often lazy. Just use a blender rather than a food processor. A blender cuts and purées much more quickly and effectively because it has 4 blades concentrated in a small well rather than 2 blades spinning in large bowl. Critically, don’t overload and don’t over-blend. All the high-powered whizzing and whirring generates heat that will begin to cook the paste and sour it too early. Over-filling the blender or blending too long just increases that heat. Add a drop of water to aid the puréeing process; do not use oil—it will emulsify and turn the paste into a heavy gluey dollop.

Ingredients

800g beef fingers
720ml coconut cream
3tbs grated ginger
80g peanuts
2cm piece of cassia or cinnamon bark
3tbs palm sugar
2tbs fish sauce
1tsp tamarind paste diluted with 55ml cold water
500g baby new potatoes

PASTE

15 dried Arbol chillis
Large pinch of sea salt
30g grated coconut
50g peanuts
7 cardamom pods
3 bay leaves
5 cloves

TAMARIND EMULSION

1 egg yolk, at room temperature
1tsp Mussaman paste
1tbs tamarind paste
125ml groundnut oil
1tbs lemon juice

PEAnUT CRUMB

80g peanuts
1 shallot
1tbs tapioca starch
Fresh chives, finely chopped

Method

MAKE THE PASTE

1. Preheat the oven to 180C.

2. Remove the seeds from the chillis, soaked in recently boiled water for 10 minutes, then drain.

3. Roast the coconut in the oven until golden brown. Leave to cool.

4. Toast the peanuts in the oven. Leave to cool then pinch away the skins. (To save time, toast all the peanuts in one go; for the paste, sauce and crumb.)

5. Arrange the cardamom pods, cloves and bay leaves on a baking tray and roast in the oven. When you can smell the spices remove from the oven and leave to cool.

6. Remove the cardamom seeds from the pods. Discard the husks.

7. Blitz the cardamom seeds, cloves and bay leaves in a spice grinder.

8. In a pestle and mortar, bash the ingredients to a paste in the following order: peanuts, coconut, ground spices, drained chillis. Add a large pinch of sea salt to act as an abrasive. Add a small amount of water if it helps—just not too much.

BRAISE THE MEAT

1. In a braising pan, bring the coconut cream to the boil.

2. Add the beef fingers and ensure they’re fully submerged. Return the coconut cream to a boil then turn down the heat to a very light simmer. Place a cartouche on top and a lid.

3. Check in periodically and stir; top up with some water if necessary. Braise for about 2 hours or until the meat is tender and can be easily pulled apart.

4. Drain the braising liquor and reserve. Return the meat to the braising pan.

COOK THE POTATOES

1. Place the potatoes in cold salted water and slowly bring to a slight simmer. The water should be salty like the sea.

2. When the potatoes are done, drain and leave to cool a little for a few minutes.

3. Though still hot carefully scrape the peel from each potato taking care to not damage the flesh. Leave to cool to room temperature then cover with cling film and set aside.

4. When ready to serve, gently warm the potatoes in a little water and butter—equal quantities.

MAKE THE PEANUT CRUMB

1. Finely dice the shallot and toss in the tapioca starch. Shake away any excess starch. Fry until golden and crispy. Drain on kitchen paper and lightly season with salt.

2. Roast the peanuts in the oven. When cool, pulse in a food processor with the skins on.

3. Finely chop the chives.

4. Mix the chopped peanuts, fried shallot and chopped chives together.

MAKE THE TAMARIND EMULSION

1. Whisk the egg yolk, Mussaman and tamarind pastes with a little salt and pepper.

2. Slowly trickle in the oil, whisking continuously.

3. Add lemon juice to taste.

4. If necessary, let down the mayonnaise to the desired consistency by adding small amounts of cold water.

MAKE THE SAUCE

1. Toast the peanuts in the oven. Leave to cool then pinch away the skins.

2. Add a splash of oil to the meat in the braising pan. Add the paste, ginger, toasted peanuts and cassia bark and fry over a low heat, stirring regularly until fragrant.

3. Add the reserved braising liquor. Season with the palm sugar, fish sauce and diluted tamarind paste.

4. Bring to the boil then turn the heat right down and let it reduce to the desired consistency. Give it a gentle stir every now and again.

Beef Massaman curry